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Fashion in the period 1795–1820 in European and European-influenced countries saw the final triumph of undress or informal styles over the brocades, lace, periwig, and powder of the earlier 18th century. In the aftermath of the French Revolution, no one wanted to appear to be a member of the French aristocracy, and people began using clothing more as a form of individual expression of the true-self than as a pure indication of social status.〔Aaslestad, Katherine B.: "Sitten und Mode: Fashion, Gender, and Public Identities in Hamburg at the Turn of the Nineteenth Century, Gender in Transition: Discourse and Practice in German-Speaking Europe, University of Michigan Press, 2006.〕 As a result, the shifts that occurred in fashion at the turn of the 19th century granted people the opportunity to present new public exterior identities that provided insights into their individual private selves. Katherine Aaslestad indicates how "...fashion, embodying new social values, emerged as a key site of confrontation between tradition and change."〔Aaslestad, Katherine B.: "Sitten und Mode: Fashion, Gender, and Public Identities in Hamburg at the Turn of the Nineteenth Century, Gender in Transition: Discourse and Practice in German-Speaking Europe, University of Michigan Press, 2006, 283.〕 For women's dress, the day to day outfit of the skirt and jacket style were practical and tactful, recalling the working class woman.〔Ribeiro, Aileen: The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France 1750–1820, Yale University Press, 1995, ISBN 0-300-06287-7〕 Women's fashions followed classical ideals, and tightly laced corsets were temporarily abandoned in favor of a high-waisted, natural figure.〔Four Hundred Years of Fashion (Victoria & Albert Museum, V&A Publications, 1984 p. 31〕 This natural figure was emphasized by being able to see the body beneath the clothing. Visible breasts were part of this classical look, and some characterized the breasts in fashion as solely aesthetic and sexual.〔Yalom, Marilyn, "A History of the Breast." (Knopf: New York, 1997)〕 In Britain, Beau Brummell introduced trousers, perfect tailoring, and unadorned, immaculate linen as the ideals of men's fashion. In Germany, republican city-states relinquished their traditional, modest, and practical garments and started to embrace the French and English fashion trends of short-sleeved chemise dresses and Spencer jackets.〔Aaslestad, Katherine B.: "Sitten und Mode: Fashion, Gender, and Public Identities in Hamburg at the Turn of the Nineteenth Century, Gender in Transition: Discourse and Practice in German-Speaking Europe, University of Michigan Press, 2006, 282-318.〕 American fashion trends emulated French dress, but in a toned down manner with shawls and tunics to cope with the sheerness of the chemise.〔Low, Betty-Bright P., “Of Muslins and Merveilleuses,” Winterthur Portfolio, vol 9 (1974), 29-75.〕 However, in Spain, members of the Aristocracy, as well as citizens of the lower class, united and rebelled against French enlightenment ideals and fashion by dressing as majas and majos to contain their Spanish pride.〔Noyes, Dorothy: "La Maja Vestida: Dress as Resistance to Enlightenment in Late 18th-century Madrid," Journal of American Folklore, vol 111, no 440, 1998, 197-217.〕 By the end of the eighteenth century, a major shift in fashion was taking place that extended beyond changes in mere style to changes in philosophical and social ideals. Prior to this time, the style and traditions of the “Ancien Régime” prevented the conceptualization of “the self”. Instead, one’s identity was considered malleable; subject to change depending on what clothes one was wearing. However, by the 1780s, the new, “natural” style allowed one’s inner self to transcend their clothes.〔Dror Warman, The Making of the Modern Self: Identity and Culture in Eighteenth-Century England (Yale University Press, 2004), pp. 166-189, 265-278〕 During the 1790s, there was a new concept of the internal and external self. Before this time, there had only been one self, which was expressed through clothing. When going to a masquerade ball, people wore specific clothing, so they could not show their individuality though their clothing. Since, for everyday dress, most people wore similar clothing, people used accessories to show their individuality. These accessories and the detail on the clothing were more important than the shape of the dress.〔 Incorporated in this new “natural” style was the importance of ease and comfort of ones dress. Not only was there a new emphasis on hygiene, but also clothing became much lighter and more able to be changed and washed frequently. Even upper class women began wearing cropped dresses as opposed to dresses with long trains or hoops that restricted them from leaving their homes. In a sense, women were influenced by male fashion, such as tailored waistcoats and jackets to emphasize women’s mobility. This new movement toward practicality of dress showed that dress no longer was a way to categorize between classes or genders; dress was meant to suit ones personal daily routine.〔Peter McNeil, "The Appearance of Enlightenment: Refashioning the Elites," in The Enlightenment Worlds, eds (Routledge, 2004), pp. 381-400〕 It was also during this time period that the fashion magazine and journal industry began to take off. They were most often monthly (often competing) periodicals that allowed men and women to keep up with the ever-changing styles. == Influence of Industrial Revolution on Fashion == In the late 18th century, clothes were mostly sold by individual shopkeepers who were often the craftsman who made the goods; they lived and worked on their shop. Customers usually lived in the same neighborhood as the shops; and the shops would gain their popularity by their customers’ word-of–mouth recommendation; except warehouse which was applied to any retail on wholesale, goods that they sold were not necessarily made in the shops. However, things started to change when stepped into the 19th century. People seek for efficiency and variety; under the influence of the Industrial Revolution, the improved transportation and introduction of the machine even allowed fashion developed at a faster pace. The first sewing machine emerged in 1790, and later, Josef Madersperger, began developing his first sewing machine in 1807 and he presented his first working machine in 1814. The introduction of the sewing machine speeded up the whole garment production.〔 Besides, advance technic of spinning, weaving and printing cotton in the 18th century had already brought detail-patterned, washable fabrics. These durable and affordable fabrics became popular among the majority population. These technics were further developed by the introduction of machines. Accessories like embroidery and lace were manufactured on a small and limited scale by skilled craftsmen and sold in their own shops; in 1804, machine for embroidering was constructed by John Duncan, people started producing these essential accessories in factory and dispatched the products in haberdashers’ shops throughout the country. These technical developments in clothing production allowed a greater variety of styles; rapid changes in fashion also became possible.〔 The Industrial Revolution bridged Europe and America with canals and railways. When Louis Simond first arrived to America, he was struck by the mobility of the population and frequency of people made trips to the capital. He wrote: ‘you meet nowhere with those persons who never were out of their native place, and whose habits are wholly local- nobody above poverty who has not visited London once in his life; and most of those who can, visit once a year.’;〔 this was one of the benefit that brought by the Industrial Revolution. The canals and railways not only transported people, but created national and even broader markets by transporting goods that manufactured in factories in great distances. The rise of industry throughout the Western world increased garment production and people were encouraged to travel more widely and purchase more goods than ever before. Besides, communication was improved; information about fashion was more popular among people. News of fashion was conveyed by little dolls dressed in the latest style, newspaper and illustrated magazines, for example: La Belle Assemblée, founded by John Bell, is a British women's magazine published from 1806 to 1837. It is best known for its fashion plates of Regency era styles. It showed how women should dress and behave. As soon as fashion became available for everybody, people were expected to dress according to the latest fashion. Dressmakers would show the fashion-plates to their customers, so that people can catch up with the latest fashion.〔 抄文引用元・出典: フリー百科事典『 ウィキペディア（Wikipedia）』 ■ウィキペディアで「1795–1820 in Western fashion」の詳細全文を読む スポンサード リンク
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